Works great in some situations (I run two dev environments and a couple of test machines as VMs), but not always. I need a physical Mac to do iOS development / builds, so need a USB switch to switch my keyboard and mouse to it when working.

Do you really need video?

My monitors have multiple inputs, so I just use a USB switch for my mouse and keyboard, and then switch the monitors between devices as needed.

Plate and stabs are stock (so screw in stabs, and PC plate).

The stabs are the least rattly that I’ve had so far (although my daily driver for the last few years no stabs, as it didn’t have any keys over 2U).

I’ve had acrylic, and stainless plates on my prior custom builds, and my Ergodox has aluminum plates, and I’m quite happy with the poly carbonate. At some point (when they come back in stock) I’ll probably get an aluminum plate just to check it out, and will grab the Pro => Max sound kit as well.

I’m using the K Pro Banana switches. I’ve run Gateron Browns primarily, but I my Erogodox has the V2 Zealios, and another build has R6 Zealios. The Zealios were a bit heavy for me for all day typing, but I like the banana switches.

I’m using the stock caps for now as well. I’m not entirely sure I love them, but I figured I’d give them some time before switching to a GMK or DSA set.

I have the Q5 Pro, and it’s definitely thocky (and a beast of a slab of aluminum after having a few layered acrylic cases).

The Max is probably a bit less thocky with the extra foam (it has 3 more foam layers than the Pro).

I haven’t used the Shift V2, but for me the extra column of keys and the full ten key, was more important than the aesthetics and adjust-ability of the Shift case.

Oh true, I forget I am on mobile usually for YouTube.

On Android the same combo of Firefox / uBlock works quite well, but of course the experience isn’t quite the same as it is in the app.

@

uBlock Origin on Firefox certainly works. There was a short period of about 5 days (a couple of months ago) where they were blocking playback with uBlock enabled, but it didn’t last long.

I don’t have much advice on finding the caps, or what will fit on it, but the profile that Keychron sells on their low profile boards is LSA (and appears to be their own profile). Using the profile name should give you a bit better search results, but it looks like there isn’t much out there that will fit those low profile switches.

My mom buys these cheap LED bulbs from Amazon and about half burn out quickly (probably 10% are DOA).

We have 100% LEDs throughout our fifth wheel (about 30 of them), and they are all still going strong (all installed in 2015, and used daily since then).

I think there’s a serious difference in quality available and it certainly shows.

In 2008(ish) we rewired our house (built in the '20s) and replaced every fixture. We probably had 25 CFL bulbs (most in ceiling fans), and had no losses for the several years that we owned the house after that. But I remember paying way more for bulbs in years before that and having them all fail fairly quickly.

Just switching to a basic qwerty layout for gaming would simplify that quite a lot

This … I’ve been a Dvorak typist for 15+ years. I have a querty layer for gaming, and a second Dvorak layer for when I switch from Windows to MAC so that I can use my same single key chords (cut / copy / paste / undo / redo / etc).